Liquid Times
400-odd words to do with surfing - 17/12/2010

It has been a long and cold spell here in this place. The sunshine and offshore and blue water has been replaced by rain and onshore and brown, smudgy waves. As they say in the classics, ‘this too shall pass,’ but in the meantime we are all forced indoors and looking out at the wind-lashed river and the polluted canals.

There are joys and dismal times when living in a coastal resort. We get the pleasures of perfect waves when there is no one around, and we suffer the onslaught of visiting hordes whenever it is holiday time. It’s not that bad. Holidays are short and winter lasts forever in South Africa.

I get bummed out by the traffic and the noises at night. Last night there was a break -in near us and there were alarms going off and noises and people driving fast and music blaring. The kids are on the jorl, but we were all kids on the jorl once and I’m not that grumpy. Not yet.

Thing is, we’ve got waves coming. So all the surfers in the hood are going to be frothing but they are also going to be on the afore-mentioned jorls. So if you know the waves are coming and you’re not afraid to get up early, you could be in for some bombs. It’s so cool going for a dawnie, driving past the jorl, and checking all the drunken people shouting, screaming and pissing in the streets.

So it’s all about planning. It’s all about being ready with your board waxed, with fins in place and leash attached. Coffee and travel mug ready by the kettle, and petrol in the car. If you’re planning on driving further than just down the road, then put your travel time into account so that you arrive 10 minutes before the South African Weather Service has predicted sunrise. Suit up in the dark and head on down to the water’s edge. As soon as you can, just paddle out and start surfing. That way the pressure’s off, and the day is yours.

Taj Burrow and an amazing video shot by helicopter by Rick Rifici. Some amazing surfing from God’s point of view

ronniebruce:

blnkpgs:

Dark Side of the Lens

This is simply amazing.

If I ever ask you to watch just one video. It’s this one. So cool.

Is Smelly Skater Going To Win?

So Mick Fanning wins the Quiksilver Pro in France, and Slater widens the gap in the rankings. Jordy Smith still in second place, but the gap isn’t so close anymore. What is going to happen? Is Kelly going to win his tenth title and then move on, or is Jordy going to come back and force Slater into another year of competing?
I say Jordy will win and force kelly’s hand, but who knows…. What’s more important is what do you think?

Jordy in France © ASP

Another day another social network

Just when I thought I had my social media program under control along comes tumblr. Aaah well, better start learning. if any one wants to give me some help with this system plse feel free to hit me back, just to chat, your biggest fan etc